La Zygotissoire

The younger, more casual sibling of Les Zygomates lacks the latter's intimacy and charm, but still feels welcoming and relaxed. There's no 'carte', but specials on the blackboard change almost daily, and the excellent-value 80F 'menu' is revised twice a week, with two choices of starter, main course and dessert. Start with a warm goat's cheese salad with tangy dressing, then move on to meats (the house speciality hinted at in the name) from the blackboard. Try the tender entrecôte with crisp sautéed potatoes, the 'tendron de veau' (veal rib roast) or the small, but succulent roast duckling, served in two rounds. Side dishes include braised chicory, gratin dauphinois, carrot purée and 'pommes lardées' - baked apples wrapped in bacon. Finish off by sharing a giant plate of assorted desserts.